Archive for Food and Drink

Seattle’s Medieval Women’s Choir Performs Sephardic Music

A few weeks ago I read that Seattle’s Medieval Women’s Choir would be performing Sephardic music tonight. That was a good reason to go since I love early music and Sephardic music. But an even more important reason was that I saw my old band mate, Shira Kammen was performing as accompanist. Way back in the early 1980s when we were both UC Berkeley grad students, my brother and I formed a Jewish music ensemble, Yasmine, which played in the Bay Area and recorded one audio tape, Jewish Songs of Celebration and Struggle. We also performed at the first Bay Area Jewish Music Festival which I founded with Gerry Tenney. When we first conceived of our group, Todd decided to invite Shira to join. She was a consummate fiddle player with a wonderful alto voice.

My brother is an excellent musician, far better than I. But Shira was the true professional among us. She was an elegant accompanist, never missing a note, never performing off key. She was always prominent in the mix but never too forward and never too far back. Not only that, but when two brothers perform together while their voices mesh wonderfully their personalities don’t always. Shira was the calm middle whenever there was tension. She had that wry, self-deprecating sense of humor that so many Jews share. She’s gone on to a professional career performing on medieval stringed instruments though her original one is the violin. Among the distinguished early music groups she’s belonged to are Ensemble Alcatraz and Ensemble P.A.N.

The concert was delightful. Here are Margriet’s insightful program notes. The choir was quite good but the soloists and accompanists were even better. Linda Strandberg had a vibrant soprano voice that conveyed the passion and intensity of the Sephardic melodies. I especially loved her opening the concert standing at the entrance to the synagogue’s sanctuary singing a very slow, resonant version of La Rosa Enfloresce (”The Rose Flowers”). The notes were piercing. The melody gorgeous. For my wife and I this was a special moment since this was the music we chose to walk down the aisle at our wedding. I first heard the song from a Hesperion XX record I bought while a grad student at UC Berkeley, right around the time Shira and I were in Yasmine together. I also note that Shira has performed with Hesperion XX, another indication of the high musical regard in which she is held.

Shira had great attack during her solos and accompaniment bringing gusto to the music. Her duets with Margriet Tindemans (also the Choir’s director), who played medieval fiddle, were exciting to listen to. The concert even featured two songs on Yasmine’s cassette, Dodi Li and Et Dodim, both from Song of Songs. During several songs, notably the sinuous vocal ornamentations of D’ror Yikra, it was all I could do to stop myself from joining along with the singing.

When I introduced myself during intermission I was delighted to find that she remembered me and our collaboration. It was so good to see her.

For anyone from Seattle, my wife and I ate at a new Asian noodle place called Boom Noodle on Capitol Hill. While the ambiance reminded me of a college cafeteria (big open tiled space with lots of reverb and noise of diners). People eat at long common tables so you don’t get a lot of privacy. But the food is quite extraordinary along with being relatively inexpensive. We had an appetizer, two noodle bowls, dessert and sake for $50 including tip. I had a seafood noodle soup with udon that included ling cod, penn cove mussels and shrimp. The mango mousse was delightful, closer to pane cotta than mousse. While Seattle is a good city for restaurants I’ve never been impressed by most of the Asian offerings. It’s great to have our first superb noodle house. Here’s the P-I review.

tags , , , , ,

Comments Print Post Print Post

Michael Clayton, Terrific Oscar-Winning Thriller

michael clayton screenshot
Last night, we went to see Michael Clayton. I’d read fabulous reviews of No Country for Old Men and There Will Be Blood, but I find it harder and harder to see downbeat films full of violence. There’s just too much violence in the real world for me to be able to enjoy it represented on screen. I know it means I’m missing some amazing films and acting.

Michael Clayton is a terrific film. A dramatic thriller involving corporate and legal skulduggery, it features a wonderful cast involving some of the finest actors working today including George Clooney in the lead, Tom Wilkinson in an astonishing performance (not rewarded with an Oscar unfortunately) as a former hotshot corporate lawyer turned raving mystical lunatic, Tilda Swinton (who did win the Oscar in her category), and Sydney Pollack (who also was one of the film’s producers).

To tell the truth, the plot was a little thin. It involves a sleazy multinational agritech corporation a la Monsanto selling a cancer-causing weed killer, which leads to a $3-billion class action suit. My wife (an attorney) and I also laughed at Clooney’s role as his law firm’s “fixer.” The guy (every law firm has one, don’t they?) who makes knotty problems go away with the wave of his hand. Rain-maker partner has a nervous breakdown? No problem. Get him into Betty Ford and clean up the mess after him. Big client involved in hit and run accident? We can make it go away.

But what is marvelous about this film is the character portrayals. Clooney is at his most compelling in the role of a troubled man seeking desperately to find some greater meaning to his life than fixing the worst problems of a group of lawyers who see him as little better than a “human janitor.” He is the good man confronting evil with just his bare wits.

Though Wilkinson’s role and portrayal of a top-flight corporate litigator unraveling in the midst of a professional and spiritual crisis are a bit showy and mannered, it’s still a tour de force. The only reason he didn’t win is the incredibly strong competition he faced in his category.

Tilda Swinton’s performance as general counsel of the sleazy multinational corporation is also a bit showy for my taste. But I’ve liked her in everything she’s been in and she’s a class act. She was especially fine in The Deep End, which I highly recommend. Her Oscar couldn’t have happened to a more deserving actor.

One of the great highlights of the film is the last scene in which Clooney, who is supposed to be dead, confronts Swinton with the unmasking of her evil machinations. The former’s line: “I’m the guy you want to buy, not the one you want to kill” is as dramatically powerful as any of the best lines delivered by Marlon Brando, Jimmy Stewart, Gary Cooper or Humphrey Bogart. And of course, Clooney’s selling of this deception to Swinton is her undoing. What is especially great about the scene is that in the midst of it and until the very last second you don’t know whether Clooney is going to allow himself to be bought or stand for something better. I don’t want to explain this for fear of spoiling it for anyone who might see the film.

Watching Clooney in this film brought me so much satisfaction contemplating an actor who got his break on a superior TV show; but who has gone on, unlike most other actors in his position, and created a superb career. He’s picked fine film vehicles for his talent, plus films that have a social conscience. The man has a mind in addition to whatever gifts God gave him. If you compare him to other male stars like Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt, or Nicholas Cage, the difference is that Clooney is less about the celebrity than about what he can do with the celebrity to advance projects and ideas in which he believes. How many are there like him in Hollywood? A few perhaps. But not many.

On a different note, for any Seattlites reading this we had dinner afterward at Porcella, a very nice Bellevue restaurant which I recommend. I had butternut squash soup with balsamic vinegar, lamb osso buco with lentils and chocolate pot au crème. What was especially lovely was our waiter bringing to our table a 7 year old “assistant” who helped take our order. She also served our food and cleaned away our dishes. Since we have a son about to turn 7 next month, I was intrigued by our eager and precocious young waiter in training. I thought she might be the waiter’s or owner’s daughter. Turns out she was the daughter of customers who were also eating there that night. Natalie, the girl’s name, was so into the idea of waiting tables that the actual waiter took her under his wing and let her join him. I thought it was splendid of him. She had a good time and her parents got to have a nice dinner to themselves. I wanted to leave her a tip in addition to his but she’d already left the restaurant by the time we paid our bill.

Porcella Urban Market
10245 Main Street
Bellevue, WA 98004
(425) 286-0080

tags , , , ,

Comments (6) Print Post Print Post

The Joys of Jewish Deli

This is good, fun food writing on a subject that is dear to my heart: Jewish delis. Unfortunately, we don’t have any good ones here in Seattle. But this is one of the funnier and more profound portions of Frank Bruni’s N.Y. Times review of the latest incarnation of the 2nd Avenue Deli:

I was saved by the latke, whose arrival shut down conversation about all else. It was scary: bigger than my foot, with an inside like cold mashed potatoes.

“It’s a school of latke,” Nora [Ephron] shrugged. “The hockey-puck school.”

“This is shocking,” said Laura. “Shocking.”

“You’re going with ‘shocking,’ Laura?” Nora teased, then wondered if there was rice pudding for dessert.

Nope. There was chocolate rugelach, which Nora said wasn’t quite as good as the raisin rugelach at Zabar’s.

Laura mentioned something about a deli near Boston, where she grew up. Ed [Koch] flashed back to corned beef and knishes from the different boroughs and decades in his life.

And I realized that we weren’t so much eating in a specific restaurant as passing through a communal storehouse of memories, on a bridge of babkas from the past to the future.

Ed, the most deeply rooted New Yorker among us, said that at the Second Avenue Deli, “I feel very much at home.”

“I walk out,” he said, “and I feel warm, no matter how cold it is.”

tags , ,

Comments Print Post Print Post

Semifreddi’s Bakery

I’m incredibly gratified by some of the wonderful response I’ve gotten to my article in Haaretz last Friday. For that and other reasons, my site traffic has gotten a delightful boost in the past week or so. No doubt that’ll come down to earth all too soon. Bloggers and authors have written telling me about their new projects. They even ask me for advice as if I’m the eminence grise of the blog world. Here I can’t get a publisher interested in my book proposal and people are asking me about improving their blogs and securing funding for video projects. Heady stuff. And the nasty trollish stuff in the Haaretz Talkback thread has been pretty tame. Except for the one who surmised that my self-hate must mean that I “married out” (I haven’t, not that it’s anyone business), nothing too brutish, thuggish or assaultive.
Semifreddis bakery screenshot
Politics can be so all-engrossing that it’s good to remember there are other wonderful things in life like children, family, friends, and FOOD. That’s where Semifreddis comes in. I’ve known Mike Rose, one the owners, since he was an undergrad at UC Berkeley back in the 1970s, where I was pursuing a PhD in Comparative Literature. Mike had a huge impact on my life. We’re both enthusiasts at heart and he imparted several of his to me.

Until I met Mike and his wife Barb I knew precious little about food. But after many, many wonderful meals at their home I slowly but surely absorbed a food ethos and consciousness. And this was even before they bought a small bakery in Kensington and turned it into the mega-boutique (is that a contradiction in terms) bakery that it has become.

When Mike moved from Berkeley to a Craftsman home in Oakland’s Grand Lake neighborhood, he began educating me about the joys of Craftsman architecture. I must admit that I was covetous of such a beautiful home. As a then single person living on a very limited income I couldn’t dream that one day I might be able to share the joy of living in such a home.

But (I’m not religious so pardon me for saying this) thank God, I met a wonderful woman who became my wife. We moved to Seattle and have had three children and live in a lovely 1906 Craftsman which we’ve been able to furnish with some wonderful Tom Stangeland pieces. Life can be good sometimes.

I’ve been waiting for years for Mike and his partners to create a website so I could feature it here. Some time ago they did just that. So here’s to you, Mike. You’ve meant a lot to me as I know your wonderful business does to so many of its customers in the Bay Area. I shouldn’t sign off here without mentioning how incredibly generous a person Mike has been to me as well.

A tip: You’ve NEVER had real biscotti till you’ve had a Semifreddi’s almond biscotte. They’re just out of this world.

tags ,

Comments (6) Print Post Print Post

Zagat Eyes Sale, Does Anyone Care?

Back before children, my wife and I used to love going to restaurants and I actually wrote quite a bit here about food. After children, food becomes a lot more utilitarian for parents and most of my writing here is now about politics, music and culture. We don’t get to eat out nearly as much as we did for many reasons. I’d like to write more about food since I still love it. But it doesn’t fire me up as it used to.


But this NY Times item piqued my interest. I used to buy Zagat guides and even more importantly use them. But then I read Mimi Sheraton’s critique of the Franco-centric fix in most Zagat surveys and I started thinking for myself about the quality of the guides. I even wrote to the editor of the Seattle guide providing some feedback about a few of the odd ratings I found for several local restaurants (I never got a response–natch). I got tired of the stupid inanity of some of the review text. And the wild exaggeration of some ratings just made me scratch my head in a what-were-they-thinking kind of way.

When I used to travel to NY more, I found the NY Times restaurant guide much more reliable and useful. But of course, it only covers New York and was last published in 2004.Before the Zagat website became subscription based, I used to contribute my own reviews to it. But the idea that Zagat was such a critical online resource that I would pay to use it really irked me. In fact, in hindsight moving the site from free to subscription based seems foolish as a free site would have exponentially higher readership than the current website with its 1.5-million members (still nothing to sneeze at).  This, in turn would have hugely increased the company’s valuation for the purposes of this sale.

I’m sure there are businesses out there who can justify reasons to buy Zagat. And the Zagats will be handsomely repaid if they earn $200 million from a sale of their business as the Times estimates. But to me Zagat is so yesterday. I bet the new owners will do away with the subscription feature and return the site to a free one. But that will be a little late for me.

tags , , ,

Comments (2) Print Post Print Post

Volunteer Park Cafe Now Serves Dinner

One of my favorite neighborhood hangouts, Volunteer Park Café, has just started serving dinner. I should clarify by "hangout" I don't mean to detract from the food, which is delicious. But I just like the warm neighborhood feel of the place. I sampled a few of the "small plates" before they started their dinner service. The Oven-Fired Fondue with taleggio, pistachio crust and truffle honey was heaven for the creamy-crunchy juxtaposition of textures. I just love rich cheese and this was a delight. Seattle has a tremendous dearth of quality Indian food. If you go on Tuesday nights you'll be treated to Anjana's southern Indian cuisine. Wednesdays feature Housemade Meatloaf. Thursdays, Cafe Chicken. ...

Comments (3) Print Post Print Post

Volunteer Park Cafe and Marketplace

Volunteer Park Cafe breakfast menu (see full menu in pdf) I need to take a break from writing about sexual harassment and the woeful state of affairs in the Middle East. What better way to do so than to tout a new Seattle restaurant? In the spot where Cafe Europa used to sit in Capitol Hill, two blocks from Volunteer Park, a new cafe has opened, Volunteer Park Cafe and Marketplace. I watched for months as they readied the new space wondering what would go in there. I waited for weeks before going in after the new place opened. But it's on my ...

Comments (4) Print Post Print Post

Sweet & Savory Bakery

Those who read my food blogging know that I'm an aficionado of great bakeries. Here in Seattle, we have a good number: Dahlia, 60th Street, Macrina and Sweet & Savory. The latter is a little hole in the wall in Mt. Baker. It's a homey storefront on 31st Avenue presided over by Cynthia Brock and a wonderful crew of young assistants. The bakery feels like a warm, informal coffee house and has a counter and a few tables. Sweet & Savory to-die-for cupcake Cynthia bakes in the French tradition and her pastries are some of the main reasons you'd want to come here. A ...

Comments (6) Print Post Print Post

Seattle Finally Has Great Pizza!

When you grow up in a place like New York and live in other places like Los Angeles, you don't have much problem finding great pizza. For that reason, you take it for granted--until you live in a town like Seattle. While Seattle has its share of good Italian restaurants, I really miss the type of informal trattoria that turns out a wickedly delicious homemade pizza from its wood-fired brick oven. Until recently, you couldn't really find it here (I note that the Accidental Hedonist agrees with me). But all that's changed. Now, there are not one, but two pizzeria's worthy of the name. The irrepressible Tom Douglas, being ...

Comments (4) Print Post Print Post

R.W. Apple, Falstaff of Food, is Dead

R.W. Apple: 'What's on the menu?' (credit: Gerald Scarfe) One of America's great food writers died today. I first came across R.W. Apple's food writing in the NY Times several years ago. I was vaguely aware that he was a political reporter for the Times prior to that (and till the end of his life). I'm sure I read his byline hundreds of times in all my decades of reading the paper. But he didn't become a real presence till I started reading his wonderful food columns. He'd travel the world looking for the finest food, best food companions and tell you about them ...

Comments Print Post Print Post

« Previous entries